The things people actually ask, answered in a sentence or two. If you want the full story, every answer links to it.
Because you already have one on those two rows. The limit is one reverb per row pair — rows 1 and 2 count as one pair, rows 3 and 4 as the other. Move the new one to the other pair and it will fit, even though the CPU meter looks half empty.
Leave it at 0 dB. That is the default and it is right for most guitars. To check, play a bit harder than you normally would and watch the input meter — it should just touch the red, not sit in it.
Check the input TYPE. Each input can be set to Mic or Instrument, and a guitar needs Instrument. On Mic it sounds thin and turning the gain up will not fix it. It is in I/O Settings, on the input you are using.
Turn on GROUND LIFT. There is one for every input, FX return and output in I/O Settings. Lift the one on whichever connection is humming.
Most often it is the cable. OUT 3/L and OUT 4/R are balanced, so a normal TS guitar cable halves the volume — you lose 6 dB. Use a TRS cable, or turn the output up 6 dB to compensate.
A preset is a whole rig. A scene is a saved snapshot of that rig's settings, and there are eight per preset. Scenes switch instantly because nothing reloads; presets swap everything and can leave a small gap.
You are changing presets where you should be changing scenes. Build the verse, chorus and solo of one song as scenes A, B and C inside a single preset and the gap disappears.
Press BANK DOWN and TEMPO at the same time. Those are the two right-hand footswitches on the bottom two rows, and the combo is printed on the chassis between them.
Use Global Bypass. It switches off every cab, IR and capture block across all your presets at once, which is what you want when you are playing through a real amp and cab. Editing presets one by one is the slow way.
Run a cable from OUT 3/L into your amp, turn on Global Bypass so no cab sims are active, and take the amp block out of the preset. Going into the amp's effects return usually sounds better than the front input.
No. It uses USB Type B, the big square connector you see on printers. If you also own a Nano Cortex, that cable is USB-C and will not fit.
Usually not. It needs 12 V at 3 amps, and most pedalboard supplies cannot deliver that much current from one output. Check the amps, not just the voltage.
Hold footswitches A and H during the first six seconds of the splash screen to reach Recovery Mode. Choose Reset Settings first — it keeps your presets and captures. Only use Factory Reset if that does not work, because it erases everything.
A Marshall JCM800. Neural rename every amp for legal reasons, and they publish the full translation in the back of the manual. We have it all in one place.
Yes, if you bought the plugin outright. Subscription and trial licences do not transfer to the hardware. You need internet once to activate, then it works offline forever.
INST LEVEL is how hard your amp gets driven. IN LEVEL is what comes back and becomes the capture. If your capture is the wrong volume, it was IN LEVEL. If it feels wrong to play, it was INST LEVEL.
Eleven. Most people count eight because A to H are the obvious ones, but BANK UP, BANK DOWN and TEMPO are footswitches too. All eleven can also be turned like a knob.
That preset is using too much processing. When it runs out, the Quad Cortex quietly switches off Global EQ and the Input Gate without telling you. Delete a block from that preset and it comes back.
You do not need to — everything works offline. If you do want Cortex Cloud, you need a strong signal, around −60 dBm or better, and it prefers 2.4 GHz. A phone hotspot with Maximize Compatibility switched on usually works.
Nothing is wrong. Those three jacks — OUT 1/L, OUT 2/R and CAPTURE OUT — have no connection sensing, so they never change colour in I/O Settings. Every other jack does.